Tag Archives: historic

West Chelsea

Chelsea began in 1750 as a single estate, extending from what is now 28th Street south to 19th Street, and from the Hudson River east to Eighth Avenue. West Chelsea, the area bordering the Hudson River, became a massive warehousing district due to its proximity to Hudson River piers, freight yards and rail lines along Tenth and Eleventh Avenues. Now the piers have been converted to other uses and the last rail line was converted to The High Line park.

West Chelsea has a wide range of architectural styles. You’ll find modern landmarks such as the IAC Building (2007) and 100 Eleventh Avenue (2009) just seven blocks south of Starrett-Lehigh Building (1931) and Terminal Warehouse (1891).

(For NewYorkitecture.com’s purposes, we are defining West Chelsea as the area between W 28th Street and W 15th Street west of The High Line.)

Two massive full-block structures anchor the landmark district: Central Stores and Starrett-Lehigh Building. Outside the Landmarks Commission district – but certainly modern landmarks – are the IAC Building and neighboring 100 Eleventh Avenue.

Central Stores, Terminal Warehouse Company is actually 25 separate buildings between W 27th and W 28th Streets, from Eleventh to Twelfth Avenue. At one time, railroad tracks ran through the building, allowing transfer and storage of freight to/from trains. Modern-day uses included the Tunnel nightclub (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tunnel_%28New_York_nightclub%29). Galleries, exhibits and events are now under development.

Just across W 27th Street, neighboring Starrett-Lehigh Building is a massive warehouse and office complex. Like Terminal Warehouse, Starrett-Lehigh was built to accommodate freight trains on its ground floor (previously the location of Lehigh Valley Railroad freight yards.) See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starrett-Lehigh_Building for more details.

The headquarters of InterActive Corp. (Eleventh Avenue from W 18th to W 19th Street) was designed by modern-day “starchitect” Frank Gehry. The massive glass “sails” were described by Vanity Fair as perhaps the world’s most attractive office building. But you can’t please everyone: “AIA Guide to New York City” sniffs, “Much has been made of Gehry’s use of the computer to transform the instant gesture into architecture, but here the gesture is static.” Wikipedia’s brief entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IAC_Building.

Next-door-neighbor 100 Eleventh Avenue uses layer upon layer of glass, set in steel frames – each frame different – to achieve its memorable mosaic façade. The luxury condominium apartment tower was completed in 2009. See the owner’s website: http://nouvelchelsea.com/architecture.php and the City Realty article: http://www.cityrealty.com/nyc/chelsea/100-eleventh-avenue/37641.

West Chelsea Recommended Reading

Also see High Line Park gallery.

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Downtown Brooklyn (Civic Center)

Brooklyn has some amazing architecture, as these photos will attest. After all, Brooklyn was the second-largest city in America at the time that it joined New York City – so Brooklyn’s civic architecture was as impressive as New York City’s. (That Brooklyn even joined New York City is a surprise – why would it want to give up its identity?)

The Civic Center extends roughly from High Street south to Atlantic Avenue, and Cadman Plaza West/Court Street east to Flatbush Avenue Extension. The neighborhood is surrounded by equally historic districts: Fulton Ferry, DUMBO, and Vinegar Hill to the north; Brooklyn Heights to the west; Boerum Hill and Cobble Hill to the south; Fort Greene/Clinton Hill to the east. (Google Map of area)

In 2011, the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission designated a tiny area (21 buildings in an area of about 2-1/2 blocks) the Borough Hall Skyscraper Historic District. The Commission’s 63-page designation report includes a history of Brooklyn’s development; Brooklyn fans will enjoy it. Eleven individual buildings outside this district were (earlier) designated NYC landmarks.

While taxpayer-sponsored grandiose architecture makes up a large portion of the photos in this gallery, schools are also well represented. NYU’s Polytechnic Institute, Long Island University Brooklyn Center, Brooklyn Law School, and City University have major contributions. MetroTech – a quasi-public commercial development – is a modern intrusion in the area.

Several commercial and civic landmarks – most notably 75 Livingston Street and 110 Livingston Street – have been converted to residential use. A few striking new apartment towers have been erected – I’ve taken the liberty of dubbing a trio the “Three Sisters,” and gave them their own gallery.

Downtown Brooklyn Suggested Reading

Google Map of area

Jefferson Market Courthouse

Jefferson Market Courthouse (bounded by Sixth Avenue, Greenwich Avenue and W 10th Street) was completed in 1874, designed by Frederick Clarke Withers. The former Third Judicial District Courthouse is now the Jefferson Market branch of the New York Public Library.

The style is American High Victorian Gothic, faced in red brick with black brick and yellow Ohio sandstone trim. The sculpture in the pediment depicts the trial scene from “The Merchant of Venice.” The clock/bell tower originally served also as a fire watch tower (the stairstepped tower windows reveal a spiral staircase within).

The court moved out in 1958; local preservationists campaigned to have the building saved as a library, and the New York Public Library agreed in 1961. The building reopened in 1967.

Source: “Guide to New York City Landmarks, Fourth Edition,” New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission.

This is where Harry Thaw was tried for the assassination of prominent architect Stanford White. Coincidentally, White’s firm – McKim, Mead and White – designed 11 branches of the New York Public Library.

Jefferson Market Courthouse Vital Statistics
  • Location: 425 Sixth Avenue at W 10th Street
  • Year completed: 1874
  • Architect: Frederick Clarke Withers
  • Floors: 6
  • Style: American High Victorian Gothic
  • New York City Landmark: 1969 (part of Greenwich Village Historic District)
  • National Register of Historic Places: 1972
Jefferson Market Courthouse Suggested Reading

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Fifth Avenue Swath

You won’t find “Fifth Avenue Swath” on any map of New York City. It is a neighborhood designation that exists only in the “AIA Guide To New York City.” In fact, if you Google “Fifth Avenue Swath,” Google will ask “Did you mean Fifth Avenue Swatch?” and display those results by default.

This section of Midtown takes in the two blocks east and two blocks west of Fifth Avenue, from Central Park South/East 59th Street south to 45th Street. It includes dozens of landmark hotels, churches and commercial buildings – including famed Rockefeller Center – but no Landmarks Commission-designated historic districts.

You’ll find that this is one of the richest sections of New York, architecturally speaking, with every style from Renaissance to Postmodern beautifully represented. Churches, office towers, department stores and boutiques, classic hotels, museums, banks, private clubs, consulates, swank apartments and more – every block has something to savor.

The AIA Guide lists 88 significant buildings; we’ve taken the liberty of adding several others that caught our eye, and were forced to omit some buildings because they were shrouded with scaffolding at the time. As a result, this gallery includes 117 structures.

These are the buildings listed in the “AIA Guide to New York City,” where you can find additional details. The buildings listed in italic are not pictured in the gallery.

1. Rockefeller Center
A. 1270 Sixth Avenue Building
B. Radio City Music Hall
C. GE Building (ex RCA Building)
D. British Building – 620 Fifth Ave
E. La Maison Francaise – 610 Fifth Ave
F. Palazzo d’Italia – 626 Fifth Ave
G. International Building (630 Fifth Avenue) / International Building North (636 Fifth Avenue)
H. 1 Rockefeller Plaza (Time & Life Building)
I. Associated Press Building – 45 Rockefeller Plaza
J. 10 Rockefeller Plaza
K. Simon & Schuster Building – 1230 Sixth Ave
L. Warner Communications Building – 15 W51 Street
M. 600 Fifth Avenue
N. Celanese Building – 1211 Sixth Ave
O. McGraw-Hill Building – 1221 Sixth Ave
P. Exxon Building – 1251 Sixth Ave
Q. Time & Life Building – 1271 Sixth Ave
R. Sperry Corporation Building – 1290 Sixth Ave
2. The Centria Apartments – 18 W48 Street
3. Swiss Center Building – 608 Fifth Ave
4. TGI Fridays – 604 Fifth Ave
5. Benetton (now Sephora) – 597 Fifth Ave
6. Bank of America – 592 Fifth Ave
7. 575 Fifth Avenue
8. Fred F. French Building – 551 Fifth Ave
9. 360 Madison Avenue
10. 383 Madison Avenue
11. Saks Fifth Avenue – 611 Fifth Ave
12. Cohen Brothers Tower – 10 E50 Street
13. St Patrick’s Cathedral Complex / A. Cardinal’s Residence / B. Lady Chapel
14. A. 451-457 Madison Avenue / B. New York Palace Hotel
15. The Urban Center – 457 Madison Ave
16. 488 Madison Avenue
17. Olympic Tower – 645 Fifth Ave
18. 11 East 51st Street
19. Versace – 647 Fifth Ave
20. Austrian Cultural Institute – 11 E52
21. 666 Fifth Avenue
22. Donnell Library – 20 W53
23. The Museum of Television and Radio – 23 W52
24. Paramount Group Building – 31 W 52
25. CBS Building – 51 W52
26. American Folk Art Museum – 45 W53
27. Museum Tower – 21 W53
28. Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)- 11 W53
29. St. Thomas Church and Parish House – 1 W 53
30. Samuel Paley Plaza (Paley Park) – 3 E53
31. 527 Madison Avenue
32. 535 Madison Avenue
33. 4 E54 – originally William H Moore House
34. Aeolian Building / Elizabeth Arden Building – 689-691 Fifth Avenue
35. University Club – 1 W54
36. 5 W54 – originally Moses Allen and Alice Dunning Starr House
37. 7 West 54 – originally Philip Lehman House
38. U.S. Trust Company – 9-11 W54
39. 13-15 W54
40. Rockefeller Apartments – 17 W54
41. Privatbanken Building – 20 W55
42. The Peninsula (ex Gotham)
43. St. Regis – 2 E55
44. Fifth Ave Presbyterian Church
45. SONY Building (originally AT&T HQ) – 550 Madison Ave
46. 717 Fifth Ave – originally Corning Glass Building
47. Henri Bendel Building – 712-714 Fifth Ave
48. 712 Fifth Avenue Building
49. 10 W56 – Felissimo (ex-Frederick C and Birdsall Otis Edey House)
50. Consulate of Argentina – 12-14 W56th Street
51. Oma Norma Kamali – 11 W56
52. 30 W56 – originally Henry Seligman House
53. Trump Tower – 725 Fifth Avenue
54. 590 Madison Avenue – originally IBM Building
55. Four Seasons Hotel – 57 E57th Street
56. Fuller Building – 41 E57th Street
57. LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Moet Hennessy) Tower – 19 E57th Street
58. The Chanel Building – 15 E57th Street
59. 3 E57th Street – former L.P. Hollander & Co. Building
60. The Crown Building – 730 Fifth Avenue (former Heckscher Building)
61. 9 W57th Street / Brasserie 8-1/2
62. 29 W57th Street – Curtiss-Wright Building, originally Ampico Building
63. Rizzoli Bookshop – 31 W57th Street
64. Louis Vuitton – 1 E57th Street
65. 745 Fifth Avenue – ex Squibb Building
66. Delmonico Plaza – 55 E59th Street
67. 650 Madison Avenue – ex C.I.T. Building
68. 5 E59th Street – one-time Playboy Club
69. General Motors Building – 767 Fifth Avenue
70. Plaza Hotel – 768 Fifth Avenue
71. The Plaza/Grand Army Plaza

The additional buildings pictured (but not listed in the “AIA Guide to New York City”) are:

72. Sherry Netherland
73. Christ Church
74. Swedish Church Center
75. Roosevelt Hotel
76. The Warwick
77. Hotel Elysee
78. Gotham Hotel
79. New York Hilton
80. Apple Store
81. Pop Burger
82. 605 Madison Avenue
83. 5 E57th Street
84. 6 E57th Street – Niketown
85. Tiffani & Co. – 727 Fifth Avenue
86. Harry Winston – 718 Fifth Avenue
87. Phantom of Broadway – 581 Fifth Avenue
88. 545 Fifth Avenue
89. Uncle Jack’s – 44 W56th Street
90. 575 Madison Avenue
91. 35 W54th Street
92. 551 Madison Avenue
93. UBS Building – 1285 Sixth Avenue
94. Credit Lyonnais – 1301 Sixth Avenue
95. 650 Fifth Avenue
96. 39 E51st Street
97. Tower 49
98. 380 Madison Avenue
99. 546 Fifth Avenue
100. 7 W45th Street
101. 555 Fifth Avenue
102. 21 W46th Street
103. 33 W46th Street
104. 14 E60th Street
105. 57 W57th Street
106. 625 Madison Avenue
107. 640 Fifth Avenue
108. Winston Building
109. Trump Parc
110. Trump Parc East
111. Metropolitan Club – 1 E60th Street
112. 21 Club – 21 W52nd Street
113. 18-20 E50th Street
114. The Harmonie Club – 4 E60th Street
115. LOVE – sculpture at Sixth Avenue and W55th Street

Other Resources

AIA Guide: p. 325.

Kingsbridge Armory

Originally known as the Eighth Coastal Artillery Armory, Kingsbridge Armory was built in 1912-17 with what was then the world’s largest drill hall, to accommodate artillery.

According to “Guide to New York City Landmarks,” the armory was designed by Pilcher & Tachau and inspired by a medieval French castle at Pierrefonds.

The main hall has been unused by the military for more than a decade, and New York City now controls the building. (A National Guard unit still uses the north annex, adjacent to the armory.) The Bronx Borough President has endorsed a proposal to turn the armory into an ice skating center with nine rinks.

Kingsbridge Armory Vital Statistics
  • Location: 29 W Kingsbridge Road between Jerome and Reservoir Avenues
  • Year completed: 1917
  • Architect: Pilcher & Tachau
  • Style: Romanesque
  • New York City Landmark: 1974
  • National Register of Historic Places: 1982
Kingsbridge Armory Suggested Reading

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Chrysler Building

Volumes have already been written about the Chrysler Building, so I’ll keep this short.

The Chrysler Building is among the very few landmarks that define New York City’s skyline. It’s the unmistakable DNA marker that – like the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty – proclaims “New York.”

Besides being unique, the Chrysler Building is beautiful. The silhouette, the crown, the setbacks, the gargoyles, the brickwork, the detailing are all beautiful. There is so much complexity and subtlety at work – such as the black brick accents at the corners that accentuate the building’s vertical lines.

Here are a few facts, with links to a wealth of fascinating articles, and my humble addition to the building’s ever-growing photographic record.

Browse
Chrysler Building Fast Facts
  • The Chrysler Building began life as the Reynolds Building – a project for real estate developer and former New York State senator William H. Reynolds.
  • The Chrysler Building was never owned or financed by the Chrysler Corporation – it was the personal project of Walter P. Chrysler.
  • The land under the Chrysler Building is owned by Cooper Union; the architect – William Van Alen – studied at Pratt.
  • The Chrysler Building and Manhattan Building (40 Wall Street, now the Trump Building) competed for “tallest” designation; their architects, William Van Alen and H. Craig Severance, had been partners before they became competitors.
  • Van Alen had to sue Walter Chrysler to collect his fee; he won, but the suit wrecked his career. After designing one of the most famous buildings of all time, Van Alen wound up teaching sculpture.
  • The Chrysler Building is now part of the “Chrysler Center,” managed by Tishman-Speyer, which also includes Chrysler East and Chrysler Trylons.
  • Chrysler Center is now 90% owned by Abu Dhabi Investment Council
Chrysler Building Vital Statistics
  • Location: 405 Lexington Avenue between E 42nd and E 43rd Streets
  • Year completed: 1930
  • Architect: William Van Alen
  • Floors: 77
  • Style: Art Deco
  • New York City Landmark: 1978
  • National Register of Historic Places: 1976
Chrysler Building Suggested Reading

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Beekman Tower Hotel

Originally known as Panhellenic Tower, the 28-story Beekman Tower Hotel was conceived by the New York Chapter of the Panhellenic Association in 1921 as a 14-story residence for female college grads. The association of Greek-letter college sororities wanted to provide affordable housing for women who were just entering the workforce in the years after World War I.

The building was completed in 1929 – delayed until the association raised enough money (through stock and mortgage) to buy land and build. The architect, John Mead Howells, also designed Pratt’s Memorial Hall and Columbia’s St. Paul’s Chapel. However, Howells was the Panhellenic Association’s second choice: Their original architect, Donn Barber, died before the land was purchased.

The building’s name changed to Beekman Tower Hotel and its clientele changed to include men during the 1930s, to stay viable through the Depression.

The lighter-colored bricks seen today are the result of repairs in 1996-97; originally the tower had a uniform orange-tan color. The deeply recessed columns of windows give the building its strong vertical lines. The glassed-in “Top of the Tower” enclosure was added in 1959.

While cited as an example of Art Deco architecture, the building’s decoration is relatively sparse (compared to other NY examples such as Rockefeller Center, Chanin Building and Chrysler Building). Greek-letter tiles on the ground floor reveal the hotel’s sorority lineage.

Beekman Tower Hotel Vital Statistics
  • Location: 3 Mitchell Place at First Avenue
  • Year completed: 1929
  • Architect: John Mead Howells
  • Floors: 28
  • Style: Art Deco
  • New York City Landmark: 1998
Beekman Tower Hotel Suggested Reading

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Flushing Highlights

Now an enclave of Korean and Chinese immigrants, Flushing was originally settled by the Dutch in the 1600s and remained an independent town until 1898, when Queens became a borough of New York City.

Among other distinctions, Flushing claims to be the birthplace of religious freedom in the United States. The Society of Friends (Quakers) had been outlawed; John Bowne was arrested for permitting Quakers to meet in his house (pictured in this gallery). Upon appeal to the Dutch government, Bowne was acquitted – establishing freedom of worship.

The most modern landmark, the RKO Keith’s Theater, is due to be replaced by a 17-story rental apartment building. Plans are to incorporate the landmark-designated theater lobby within the new structure.

Within a three-block radius are 10 buildings of architectural and historical interest (including the Queens Historical Society). And if you should get hungry while exploring the area, you just might find a Chinese or Korean restaurant or two….

Other Resources

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Historical Societies

You’ll find historical societies in all five boroughs of New York; as you’ll see, they are architecturally interesting in themselves, and are valuable resources for learning more about the boroughs’ history.

Here are some capsule reviews of each, with contact info. Be sure to get current visitor and exhibit information – some sites have very limited hours of operation.

New York Historical Society

New York Historical Society

The New York Historical Society is both the oldest and among the youngest museums in New York. It was founded in 1804, but the building was renovated and reopened in November 2011. It now includes state-of-the-art interactive displays on three exhibit floors and a spectacular multimedia show – “New York Story” – which by itself is almost worth the price of admission. (The 18-minute show screens every half hour.) The Society is also young in its approach to history – it has a sense of humor that pops up and keeps the exhibits fresh. Where else would you find a “Beer Here” exhibit?

The permanent collection is displayed on the fourth floor (which has its own mezzanine); changing exhibits are on the first and second floors; a children’s museum, library and classrooms are on the lower level. The first floor also contains the auditorium, gift/book shop and cafe. New York Historical Society goes to great lengths to make its collection accessible to all – mobility, sight and hearing impairments are all accommodated.

The New York Historical Society museum and library covers all of New York City – unlike the other societies, which focus on single boroughs. Consequently, there’s some overlap between this museum and the Museum of the City of New York on Fifth Avenue.

Note that the Society’s library closes earlier than its museum – 3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday and 1 p.m. on Saturday (closed Sunday).

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Museum of the City of New York

Museum of the City of New York

This is not one of the historical societies, strictly speaking – it’s a New York City-operated museum which serves many of the same purposes.

You might also be interested in the Queens Museum of Art (which has a massive city panorama, updated from the original 1964 NY World’s Fair).

Google map


Bronx County Historical Society

The Museum of Bronx History operates out of the Valentine-Varian House, a fieldstone farmhouse built in 1758. The Society also maintains a separate archive/library and the nearby Poe House (see below). In addition, the society operates tours.

Google map


Poe Cottage

Poe Cottage

(Operated by Bronx County Historical Society)

This is where Edgar Allan Poe spent his last years; where his wife died and where he wrote some of his most memorable works. The docent gives an excellent talk about Poe, his life and times; there’s also an informative video shown in an upstairs bedroom. In the adjacent park, the Parks Department operates an educational center.

And if you need another reason to visit, the immediate neighborhood is rich in architectural treasures – including Kingsbridge Armory, two blocks west.

Google map


Brooklyn Historical Society

Brooklyn Historical Society

Founded as the Long Island Historical Society in 1863; changed its name to Brooklyn Historical Society in 1985. The building is still going through restoration – the main floor gallery is the current (as of September 2012) project; most other areas, inside and out, are stunningly beautiful. In addition to the exhibit galleries, the Society houses an impressive research library.

Google map


Queens Historical Society

Queens Historical Society

The Queens Historical Society operates out of Kingsland Homestead in Flushing, next to the historic Bowne House (currently closed for restoration). It’s a small operation, open only a few hours on just three days a week. But they do have a good selection of publications – books and pamphlets – about other historic sites in Queens. And, it’s a part of the Flushing “Freedom Mile” walking tour that includes 10 other significant buildings. (Kingsland Homestead was a part of the “Underground Railroad.”)

Google map


Staten Island Historical Society

Church of St. Andrew

Historic Richmond Town is a score of restored/reconstructed homes, farms, businesses, schools and churches, dating from the 1700s and 1800s. It’s quite rural compared to the rest of the city and very popular for school outings. There are several themed tours – consider this an all-day trip – or several trips!

If you’re very ambitious, there’s a Frank Lloyd Wright-designed home (see “The Wright Stuff” gallery.) and a lighthouse at the top of the hill overlooking Historic Richmond Town, and a beautiful church and cemetery across the street.

Google map

Other Sites of Interest

Lever House

Lever House (1952) was New York’s first curtain wall skyscraper, beginning Park Avenue’s switch from masonry to glass buildings. The 24-story green glass tower gave impetus to the International Style of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. What’s more, it led the owner to switch careers, from sales back to architecture! Lever Brothers president Charles Luckman quit the company before Lever House was completed, moved to California and his first love, architecture. (He had trained for architecture at the University of Illinois, but was sidetracked to sales during the Great Depression.)

Though Luckman was involved in Lever House’s design, the architect of record was Gordon Bunshaft of famed Skidmore, Owings and Merrill.

Lever House avoided the typical “wedding cake” skyscraper design by occupying less than 25 percent of its lot (an exception to the 1916 zoning law that dictated stepped setbacks to permit sunlight to reach the street). Lever House’s success was widely copied by other tower and plaza designs (notably Mies van der Rohe’s masterpiece Seagram Building, diagonally across the street!).

Most of the Lever House ground floor is open plaza; the glass-enclosed portion includes an art gallery open to the public.

Along with the steel and glass curtain walls came another timely innovation: a window-washing gondola mounted on a rooftop track!

While the NYC Landmarks Preservation Commission gave Lever House Landmark status November 9, 1982, the building’s original steel and glass facade had deteriorated. In 1998 Unilever sold the building; the new owners replaced the crumbling steel and glass with an aluminum and glass curtain wall – completed in 2001 and again designed by Skidmore, Owings and Merrill.

Lever House Vital Statistics
  • Location: 390 Park Avenue between E 53rd and E 54th Streets
  • Year completed: 1952
  • Architect: Gordon Bunshaft of Skidmore, Owens & Merrill
  • Floors: 24
  • Style: International
  • New York City Landmark: 1982
  • National Register of Historic Places: 1983
Lever House Suggested Reading

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